Or just have him write down what it says. As for your roadtrip, have him print you out the screen under HPCM2 with the isolation resistance value and as long as you have 75kOhm or more you will be fine. I think what he meant is that it just won't charge using the EVSE. The battery will still hold a charge regardless of how much isolation is lost. The OBD MX+ is apparently the gold standard OBDII dongle for volts as it has the correct pins to communicate with the SWCAN bus on GM vehicles and works well with the mygreenvolt app I have an iPhone and used OBD Fusion and this Those use a much more reliable isolation monitoring system that I use to determine if it is truly an isolation fault, or something going on such as air in the battery cooling system messing with the other active isolation monitoring test.
#2013 chevy volt battery replacement cost software
A much better value to look at is in the GDS2 software under modules, Drive Motor 1 Inverter values, there should be two values, negative and positive isolation voltages. Also, I don't have a ton of faith in the active isolation test that GM uses for the P0AA6 monitor. I know this works because I did it for a year before I got around to fixing my isolation problem.
#2013 chevy volt battery replacement cost code
For clearing the the P0AA6 isolation code you can use a generic OBDII dongle and any app on your phone. By plugging in the charger you will prevent it from running this test and it will merrily charge. The car only runs the isolation test once everything is unplugged and off. You can actually make the car charge with a loss of isolation by first plugging the car in to charge, then clearing the codes. Mountain mode will work all the way down to a complete loss of isolation on the volt batteries. So do we just see if the dealership will buy it from us for pennies? Any other ideas? We had planned to fly back up in late August and drive the Volt back to Georgia, but now that I am being told the car could fail at any time, that seems like a bad idea.Ī quick glance at the used car market seems to indicate that the cost of replacing the battery will be at least a few thousand more than what the car would be worth, even with a working battery.
We drove the Volt there for an extended vacation, ended up test driving and buying a 2021 Toyota Rav4 Prime, then drove that back home this weekend, only getting the news on the Volt today. We live in Georgia but the car is currently in upstate New York (dealership is in Vermont) at my in-law's summer home. Now we're just trying to figure out what the hell to do with it. Battery warranty expired by time in May, but we also surpassed 100K miles almost at the same time.
Quote for battery replacement is about $10,600, parts and labor. He gave me CEL codes P0aa6 and P1FFF for reference. But the problem will apparently get worse and eventually it won't charge itself at all, and at that point it will be 2000 lb brick. The tech explained that Mountain Mode working for now is because that's a lower voltage to begin with. The battery is not able to sense a ground so it's won't charge from high voltage sources. We tried topping off the coolant to see if that would help but didn't have any way to clear the code.ĭropped off at a dealership and they called this morning to tell me that our battery has a "loss of isolation". Was able to charge perfectly fine in Mountain Mode though, so I wasn't too worried.
Our 2013 Volt Premium recently got the dreaded "Service High Voltage Charging System" warning, along with a CEL and inability to charge off 110v or at L2 public chargers. The bad news is we chose not to trade in our Volt, and if we had we maybe could have gotten thousands more for it than we can now. Well the good news is we just bought a new car.
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